[0 - 2] - What do you get when you cross a soybean,
[2 - 4] an epic road trip, and a giant whisk?
[5 - 7] No, seriously, guess.
[7 - 9] No, but that's close.
[9 - 13] No, this episode. (whimsical music)
[14 - 16] Tofu is an ancient food.
[16 - 18] Legend says that it's been produced in China
[18 - 21] since the Han dynasty, more than 2,000 years ago,
[21 - 22] but it wasn't until the 10th century
[22 - 26] that it really caught on and spread beyond China's borders.
[26 - 28] Now today it is broadly consumed around the world
[28 - 31] with true devotees in east, southeast, and south Asia
[31 - 33] as well as obviously here in the U S.
[33 - 35] Interestingly, soybeans have long had a foothold
[35 - 38] here in the US but they were mostly used for animal feed,
[38 - 41] soil revitalization, they actually add nitrogen to the soil,
[41 - 44] which is really cool, and cooking oils.
[44 - 45] The health food movement of the 1970s
[45 - 48] brought tofu into the spotlight here in the US
[48 - 50] and, as is always the case in this country,
[50 - 51] immigrants taught the nation
[51 - 53] how special and delicious it is.
[53 - 57] There is a huge, dizzying array of tofu styles out there.
[57 - 60] We have silken, medium firm, firm, extra firm,
[60 - 63] super firm, and all of that is just the tip of the iceberg
[63 - 65] and they all start with soybeans.
[65 - 68] Those soybeans go on a journey that includes soaking,
[68 - 71] grinding, cooking, coagulating, and sometimes pressing
[71 - 74] and today we're going to join them on that journey,
[74 - 75] and, as everybody knows,
[75 - 80] that journey begins right in New York city, road trip!
[80 - 84] (car engine starts and horn beeps)
[84 - 87] Wow, here we are in New York city,
[87 - 90] the city of brotherly light by the bay.
[91 - 93] There are so many things to do.
[93 - 97] I can taste the local cuisine, find personalized souvenirs,
[97 - 100] visit all of my favorite stores, and make memories
[100 - 102] that will last a lifetime.
[102 - 106] Our tofu journey starts right here in Time Square.
[106 - 109] Wait, we were supposed to meet Grace in Chinatown.
[109 - 112] And our adventure starts right here in Chinatown.
[112 - 114] I am so honored to be joined by my dear friend
[114 - 117] award-winning cookbook author Grace Young.
[117 - 120] Grace is a vocal advocate for AAPI communities,
[120 - 123] and wok cooking expert, and today's generous guide
[123 - 125] through new York's vibrant Chinatown.
[125 - 127] She's offered to bring me to meet Paul Eng
[127 - 129] at his tofu shop Fong On on Division Street
[129 - 130] in the heart Chinatown.
[130 - 132] - I'm bringing you to Fong On,
[132 - 135] which is one of my all-time favorite stores in Chinatown.
[135 - 139] It's been around for over 80 years and Paul Eng, the owner,
[139 - 141] is going to show us how to make tofu today.
[141 - 142] - I'm so excited, let's do this!
[142 - 145] Paul's grandfather started making tofu with this location
[145 - 148] in 1933 and sold it at their storefront
[148 - 151] Fong Inn Too on Mott Street for more than 80 years.
[151 - 153] That shop closed in 2017.
[153 - 156] When Paul decided to reopen the shop,
[156 - 159] he faced incredible obstacles, one of the biggest,
[159 - 163] family legacy recipes had disappeared when the shop closed.
[163 - 164] - It was one of those
[164 - 169] kind of family recipe through folklore, you know?
[169 - 171] It was a cup of this, a spoon of that.
[171 - 172] My father knew the recipe
[172 - 176] and everybody else was taught by my father
[176 - 179] or somebody at a certain time
[179 - 182] and they were just given a set of tools to do so.
[182 - 185] - So how did he learn how to make great tofu? Science, baby.
[185 - 188] - I had to set out to relearn all the recipes
[188 - 192] from a scientific standpoint, ya know?
[192 - 194] It had to be measured and then of course,
[194 - 197] now that I've figured out the measurements of everything,
[197 - 202] there is that other part that is about feel.
[202 - 205] - And, if you ask Grace Young, you did a really good job.
[205 - 209] - I just have to say as a local, when you reopened in 2019,
[209 - 212] it was so fantastic
[212 - 216] to actually have great tasting tofu again,
[216 - 217] because Chinatown wasn't the same.
[217 - 219] - And Chinatown won't be the same, you know?
[219 - 221] It's always changing and it's always, you know,
[221 - 224] and the main thing is just kind of progressing forward.
[224 - 227] I mean, we've had ideas in the past
[227 - 231] where we were trying to transcend Chinatown too, you know?
[231 - 233] But there was always this idea
[233 - 237] of trying to make tofu more palatable to other people
[237 - 239] other than Asians, you know?
[239 - 240] Or treat it differently.
[240 - 244] Oh, why don't we make a tofu burger or a tofu, you know?
[244 - 246] And and my point of view was always
[246 - 249] it should be eaten or at least present it
[249 - 251] in its original form, right?
[251 - 252] People can take tofu
[252 - 254] and do whatever they want later on with it,
[254 - 257] but it should be presented in its original form
[257 - 261] because it tastes good just as it is.
[261 - 263] - I couldn't agree more.
[263 - 264] Now, let's see how he does it.
[265 - 267] Paul starts with soybeans, but not just any soy beans.
[268 - 270] He gets his non-GMO soybeans locally sourced
[270 - 272] from farms and the New York region.
[272 - 274] The beans are soaked at room temperature
[274 - 276] for at least six hours or up to overnight.
[276 - 279] He works with about 90 pounds of soy beans a day.
[279 - 281] After soaking, the soybeans are poured into a grinder
[281 - 283] along with a steady spray of water.
[283 - 285] Both the amount of water and its temperature
[285 - 286] are carefully controlled.
[286 - 288] The front tank fills with creamy white,
[288 - 290] protein-rich soy milk, beautiful,
[290 - 293] and the pulp empties into a second tank in the back.
[293 - 295] Paul then grinds his pulp a second time
[295 - 298] to extract as much rich liquid as possible
[298 - 299] from the soybeans.
[299 - 301] So now we've got a tub of gorgeous soy milk
[301 - 304] and a bucket full of ground soybean pulp.
[304 - 305] This is destined for tofu,
[305 - 308] and this is destined for use as fertilizer.
[308 - 309] The next step is heating the soy milk
[309 - 311] in order to deactivate enzymes.
[311 - 313] One particular enzyme, lipo oxygenase,
[313 - 316] is responsible for an undesirable beany flavor
[316 - 317] that can be present in some soy milk.
[317 - 320] Paul pumps the soy milk into two stainless steel tanks
[320 - 322] where steam is forced through the liquid
[322 - 323] to bring it to a boil and then hold it there
[323 - 325] for about 10 to 15 minutes.
[325 - 326] Okay, this is really exciting
[326 - 329] because we're at my first favorite part of the process,
[329 - 331] coagulation and yes,
[331 - 333] I have multiple favorite parts of the process.
[333 - 334] Trust me, you will too.
[334 - 335] Now I know coagulation
[335 - 337] doesn't sound like the most delicious word,
[337 - 340] but it's the very reason that we can go from liquid soy milk
[340 - 343] to tender, wobbly, delicious bites of tofu.
[343 - 345] Coagulants link the soybean proteins together
[345 - 347] in order to form a gel-like structure
[347 - 350] that traps all of that water in place, very cool.
[350 - 354] Now, there are a few options when it comes to coagulants.
[354 - 357] There is magnesium chloride, also known as nigari,
[357 - 358] which is extracted from seawater
[358 - 361] and it's a popular choice for making Japanese tofu.
[361 - 364] There's calcium sulfate, also known as gypsum,
[364 - 365] and that's used a lot in beer-making
[365 - 367] and available at Homebrew stores.
[367 - 370] And magnesium sulfate, also known as Epsom salts.
[370 - 372] That one is readily available at supermarkets.
[372 - 375] Another, called glucono delta-lactone,
[375 - 378] is used in big industrial production, and funny story,
[378 - 380] it's actually the fraternity that I pledged in college.
[380 - 382] I didn't get it.
[382 - 384] Believe it or not acids like lemon juice and vinegar
[384 - 387] can also do the job, but they're not used commercially
[387 - 389] and both leave an acidic taste behind.
[389 - 390] The type of coagulant
[390 - 392] will have an impact on the texture of the tofu
[392 - 395] and that's why some producers use different "coags,"
[395 - 396] that's our little nickname for them,
[396 - 398] depending on the type of tofu they're making.
[398 - 401] Paul used to do that, but he now prefers calcium sulfate,
[401 - 403] AKA gypsum, for all of his tofu.
[403 - 406] Eddie, who has been making tofu with Paul's family
[406 - 408] for 35 years, has placed a precise amount
[408 - 411] of calcium sulfate solution in each of these buckets
[411 - 415] and now he masterfully pours the hot soy milk into each.
[415 - 416] While it certainly looks cool
[416 - 417] to pour from up high light that,
[417 - 419] Eddie isn't doing this for style points,
[419 - 421] though he still gets the points.
[421 - 422] I want to be really clear about that.
[422 - 424] He's not doing it for the points
[424 - 426] but he still gets them, okay?
[426 - 428] The gypsum does its job rapidly.
[428 - 429] So the goal is to thoroughly mix
[429 - 432] the hot soy milk and the coagulant quickly
[432 - 435] and the agitation of pouring from up high does just that.
[435 - 436] In just a minute or two,
[436 - 439] the buckets of soy milk form into a lovely gel.
[439 - 440] Now here's where I should back up and mention
[440 - 443] that Paul makes three kinds of tofu at Fong On.
[443 - 446] He makes two kinds of block tofu, soft and firm,
[446 - 448] and a silken style that he calls tofu pudding.
[448 - 451] For all block style tofu, that gel needs to be broken up
[451 - 454] in order to release whey and then press to expel some of it.
[454 - 457] Paul starts this process with a giant whisk.
[457 - 459] I love this thing.
[459 - 460] The more he breaks up the gel,
[460 - 462] the faster the whey will release
[462 - 464] and Paul's grandfather used stones to press tofu
[464 - 467] and formed individual blocks one at a time.
[467 - 468] Paul's setup is a bit more modern
[468 - 471] with stainless steel hydraulic presses.
[471 - 471] Though, it's important to note
[471 - 474] that Paul's production is still tiny.
[474 - 476] It's very hands-on and artisanal.
[476 - 478] After lining a perforated tray with muslin,
[478 - 480] he ladles the broken gel in.
[480 - 482] One bucket perfectly fills one tray.
[482 - 485] Then he repeats and stacks trays before pressing twice.
[485 - 487] Just look at all that whey.
[487 - 489] While often the difference between firmness of block tofu
[489 - 491] is the result of how much pressing is done,
[491 - 494] i.e. more pressing equals firmer tofu,
[494 - 495] Paul does things a little differently.
[495 - 498] He strains out more soy milk solids when making soft tofu
[498 - 501] and leaves more of them in for making firm.
[501 - 503] That way he can press them both to the exact same size
[504 - 506] and get two different textures, very cool.
[506 - 508] After about 15 minutes and two pressings,
[508 - 510] the tofu is ready to be cut into blocks.
[510 - 513] Now just check out this reveal.
[513 - 515] He removes the metal mold, peels back the muslin,
[515 - 519] and look at that gorgeous expanse of creamy white tofu.
[519 - 521] Now, it's time to cut.
[521 - 523] Paul cuts his tofu by hand with focused precision.
[523 - 524] I would say that
[524 - 527] this is the most visually satisfying part of the process,
[527 - 529] but you haven't seen what comes next.
[529 - 532] That's right, my second favorite part of the process.
[532 - 534] Fresh tofu needs to be stored in water
[534 - 536] to keep it moist and lovely.
[536 - 538] Check out this tofu slide
[538 - 541] and now, check it out again.
[541 - 543] This time in slow motion.
[545 - 546] Man, I could do that all day
[546 - 549] but it is time for tofu pudding.
[549 - 550] For his silken tofu
[550 - 552] Paul sets strained soy milk with coagulant
[552 - 555] and then nothing else.
[555 - 557] Once set, it's taken straight to the front of the shop
[557 - 560] to serve a line of waiting customers
[560 - 563] and this is the tofu that Grace and I can't wait to taste.
[563 - 565] Grace orders hers with ginger syrup
[565 - 568] and because she's really nice, she lets me have a bite.
[569 - 571] That is so good.
[571 - 574] And I can't help going for Paul's savory version,
[574 - 577] which features pickled radish, fried shallots, scallions,
[577 - 580] dried shrimp, sesame oil and chili sauce.
[580 - 582] Paul tells me to mix mine up
[582 - 585] and then I let Grace try it first and then I dig in.
[585 - 588] Oh man, this is perfect.
[588 - 591] Honestly, this might be the best bite of tofu I've ever had.
[591 - 594] It's ethereal, it holds together just long enough
[594 - 595] to get into your mouth
[595 - 598] before it collapses back into rich creamy soy milk.
[598 - 601] The toppings add pops of texture, salt, and umami.
[601 - 604] The best part about tofu pudding is it as light enough
[604 - 606] that you can basically just keep eating it all day long.
[606 - 608] But I have a lot of jealous friends back in Boston
[608 - 611] who aren't currently eating this tofu pudding.
[611 - 614] I've promised to buy some of Paul's fresh block tofu
[614 - 615] and bring it back to make
[615 - 618] one of my all-time favorite tofu dishes, Mapo Tofu.
[618 - 620] I pick up a couple of blocks of soft
[620 - 621] and a couple of blocks of firm.
[621 - 624] Let's hit the road and go to the kitchen.
[625 - 626] You gotta give me a minute.
[626 - 629] Traffic on the Verrazano was brutal.
[629 - 632] Mapo Tofu, the iconic Sichuanese classic
[632 - 633] is one of my favorite tofu dishes,
[634 - 637] but I've never made it with super fresh, handmade tofu.
[637 - 637] Let's do this.
[637 - 638] The first step
[638 - 641] is to cut two blocks of Paul's soft tofu into cubes
[641 - 642] and then poach them briefly.
[642 - 645] This gives the tofu a slightly firmer structure
[645 - 647] so that it holds together during the braise.
[647 - 649] This step is often done with boiling water,
[649 - 651] but I'm using some chicken broth seasoned with scallions
[651 - 652] and I'm using the microwave.
[652 - 654] Then, we make our incredible spice paste
[654 - 657] with the garlic, ginger, doubanjiang,
[657 - 660] which is a spicy broad bean paste, fermented black beans,
[660 - 664] oil, Sichuan chili powder, and tingly Sichuan peppercorns.
[664 - 666] Now, it is time to cook.
[666 - 669] I'm using 85% lean ground beef,
[669 - 670] but you could also substitute pork.
[670 - 673] Once it begins to brown, I will transfer it to a bowl.
[673 - 676] Then, we sizzle our spice paste until dark and fragrant.
[676 - 678] In goes our tofu and broth
[678 - 680] along with hoisin, sesame oil, and our beef.
[680 - 682] Finally, we thicken with a simple cornstarch slurry,
[682 - 685] top with a few more Sichuan peppercorns,
[685 - 687] and serve with plenty of steamed rice.
[687 - 691] Just look at that perfect creamy cubes of fresh tofu,
[691 - 694] super savory spicy tingly sauce.
[694 - 696] Am I drooling?
[696 - 699] Whether you're hanging out at Paul Eng's Fong On
[699 - 701] with incomparable Grace Young
[701 - 703] eating silky spoonfuls of tofu pudding
[703 - 707] or serving up a batch of this soul-warming Mapo Tofu,
[707 - 711] this is without a doubt how to eat tofu.
[713 - 716] I've got a lot of folks to thank for this one
[716 - 718] and some great next steps for all you tofu lovers.
[718 - 721] The first is to check out Andrea Nguyen's book Asian Tofu.
[721 - 725] There's almost a hundred recipes for amazing tofu dishes
[725 - 727] plus history, culture, and production.
[727 - 728] It's a must get.
[728 - 729] While you're buying your book,
[729 - 731] make sure to pick up Grace Young's Breath of a Walk.
[731 - 733] It's a classic if you don't have it.
[733 - 736] Big, big thanks to Paul Eng and Fong On,
[736 - 738] the entire staff there for bringing us in
[738 - 740] and showing us how tofu comes to life.
[740 - 743] Please support your local AAPI restaurants and businesses,
[743 - 745] they need it now more than ever.
[745 - 746] If you can't make it to new York's Chinatown,
[747 - 747] just go around the corner
[747 - 750] to your local Asian restaurant and or grocer.
[750 - 753] Take a video or picture of whatever you're eating or buying
[753 - 757] and post it on social media with the hashtag #LoveAAPI.
[757 - 758] Thanks a lot and happy eating.
[758 - 762] (bright big band music)