Zest your lemons: Finely grate the zest from two lemons and set it aside. You’ll use some juice in the apples, and the zest and some juice in pancakes, but if you don’t zest before juicing, you’re going to get grumpy. (Trust me.)

Prepare the sautéed apples: In a large heavy skillet, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Add the apples and cook, stirring occasionally, until they’re slightly softened, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle with sugar, cinnamon, and a pinch of salt and continue to cook, stirring, for 5 to 10 minutes until apples are tender. Stir in juice from half of one of your zested lemons, and remove pan from heat. It should stay warm while you make the pancakes; if not, gently reheat the apples before serving.

Make the pancakes: In a large bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, ricotta, granulated sugar, juice from the second half of the lemon you used above (save second de-zested lemon for another use), all of the lemon zest, and salt until combined. Stir in flour; mixture will become very thick but this is fine for now. In a second bowl, use an electric mixer to beat egg whites until they hold firm peaks. Whisk about one-third of egg whites into the egg yolk mixture to loosen it, then fold in the rest of the egg whites, gently but thoroughly.

Heat a griddle over medium heat. Brush with melted butter or oil. Spoon batter into the pan in 2-tablespoon mounds (for smaller pancakes, as shown) or 1/4-cup mounds (for medium pancakes), flattening them slightly with the back of the spoon for even cooking. Cook until medium golden brown underneath and flip, cooking on the second side until deep golden brown underneath as well. If pancakes are browning before centers are set, reduce heat to medium-low. You can keep the pancakes warm in a 200°F oven, if you wish, while you make the rest of the pancakes.

Serve the pancakes: With sautéed apples and a drizzle of maple syrup.